By Warren P. Aston
Photography by Scot Facer Proctor
Editor’s
note: Meridian has published an earlier article by George
Potter and Richard Wellington, presenting their theories
of another possible solution to the question of where
Nephi built the ship. See
Discovering Nephi’s Harbor at Bountiful. The
sites of the Book of Mormon events are not specifically
known and the research is intriguing.
Warren
and Michaela Aston have spent years exploring the coastline
of Yemen and Oman searching for a place that matches the
description that Nephi gives us in the Book of Mormon
with some detail.
The Book of Mormon had been
in print more than a century and a half before any Latter-day
Saint attempted to see where the story of Lehi and Sariah
took place. In 1976, Lynn and Hope Hilton of Salt Lake
City were able to visit the country of Oman very briefly
and see the fertile southern region reported by earlier
writers. Although a civil war was just ending, limiting
their visit to the area near the capital, Salalah, they
reported seeing many of the features Nephi described.
1
I had been conducting Book
of Mormon research in neighboring Yemen and in 1987, was
able to obtain permission to travel in Oman, becoming
the second Latter-day Saint researcher to do so.
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I went with no thought other
than of seeing for myself the unique and special place
called by the Lehites “Bountiful,” the launching place
for Nephi’s ship. In the days that followed however I
began to realize that what I was seeing didn’t seem to
match the detailed description Nephi had recorded. To
be sure, the Salalah area with its irrigated plantations
of palm trees and crops was picturesque and the inlet
of Khor Rori offered a suitable port where a ship could
be safely built and launched. But other essential features
seemed to be missing.
To begin with, here was little
natural vegetation except for grass and small bushes
and trees set back in the hills across miles of barren
plain. None of these trees seemed to offer “much fruit”
— the very reason Bountiful was so named — or timber for
building a ship. There was no obvious candidate for “the
mount” where Nephi retired often to pray for guidance.
And the fact that people had lived in this area for thousands
of years seemed to clash with several aspects of Nephi’s
story.
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I began to re-examine the
first eighteen chapters of First Nephi more closely for
clues. Waiting to be mined proved to be a wealth of very
specific detail about the place that had been “prepared
of the Lord” (1 Nephi17:5) for Lehi, Sariah and their
family (note — all references are from First Nephi):
- Firstly, Bountiful lay
“nearly eastward” from Nahom, where Ishmael
was buried (16:34, 17:1). My research in Yemen had
already firmly linked the present-day tribal area of
Nehem with Nahom, so Bountiful must lie close to the
same latitude (about 16 degrees North).
- Obviously, there had to
be access from Nahom to the coast. In
some places mountains ranges are so steep at the Arabian
coast that they cannot be crossed.
- Bountiful was a suitable
coastal location where a ship could be built and launched.
- Nephi wrote twice that
Bountiful was so named for its “much fruit
and wild honey” (17:5, 6).
- Bountiful had timber
suitable to construct a ship able to carry at
least two dozen people (18: 1,2) for thousands of miles
across the oceans.
- Year-round fresh
water (rare in Arabia) must have been available
to the group at the site.
- A nearby mountain
where Nephi could go there and pray “oft,” (17:7,
18:3).
- The story of Nephi’s brothers
attempting to kill him (17: 48) makes little sense unless
there were high cliffs overlooking deep
sea over which he could be thrown.
- Metal ore and flint must be in the area that could be located easily
and smelted to make tools (17: 9-11, 16).
- Finally, a multitude of
reasons suggest that there were probably no other
people at Bountiful. If they were in
a seaport town it hardly seems likely that a specific
revelation would be needed to show Nephi where to obtain
ore and the effort needed to smelt it and then fashion
the tools he needed. He would not have had to rely
on his brothers to assist him had local labor and expertise
been available, nor frequent revelations about how to
build the ship. Also, Laman and Lemuel could easily
have returned to their beloved Jerusalem if they had
merely arrived at the beginning of the incense trade
route as some have suggested; instead they seem to have
left willingly when the time came. 2
Put together, Nephi had painted
a very precise word-picture of this last stopping place
on their long land journey from Jerusalem. It was from
this place they would voyage to the promised land in the
New World and begin two great civilizations that would
last a millennium.
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But if the Salalah area was
not the place, where on the Arabian coast could it be?
Could the climate or sea level have changed in 2600 years
enough to mask the location? Joseph Smith had put his
entire prophetic credibility on the line when he included
specific directions, highly detailed descriptions and
even a place-name enroute in the account. His critics,
however, attacked the story and in particular that Arabia
could harbor a lush place where fruit and timber trees
grew.
There and then I decided
that Latter-day Saints deserved to know the answer to
these questions and that we would never know them unless
the entire south Arabian coast was properly explored.
Establishing Credibility
As the effort to explore the entire eastern coast of
southern Arabia began, the credibility of the whole Arabian
setting of the Book of Mormon was at stake. If no place
matching Nephi’s Bountiful was found it could only mean
that:
Since Nephi’s day,
2600 years ago, climate and coastline had changed
or
that Nephi’s
account was fictitious.
Scientists today see little
evidence of sea-level change in that region since Lehi’s
day. In fact, the ruins of buildings at the coast firmly
dated to Lehi’s time assure us that the sea level has
changed little, if at all. 3 Nor is there any
evidence of significant climate change in the past two
millennia. 4
For these reasons the Book
of Mormon was criticized for making the fantastic claim
that Lehi’s group arrived at a fertile place with fruit
and timber trees.
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Exploring nine hundred miles
of coastline on the ground, most of it in Yemen, however,
proved to be a daunting task. Roads did not exist in
many areas, and parts were closed for military use. Despite
using a 4WD vehicle with an armed local guard, bandits,
unpredictable gas supplies and poor maps led to many unintended,
sometimes dramatic desert adventures — occasionally resolved
only at gunpoint. Not until 1992 was the final stage
covered, and for the first time Latter-day Saints then
had objective data about the entire coast.
The grim reputation of the
coast of the Arabian peninsula as an unrelenting, barren
wasteland proved to be well deserved. In hundreds of
miles of searching in Yemen I found only three places
where there was any source of water at all; including
the ancient incense shipping port of Qana or Bir Ali.
Another was the mouth of the largest wadi in all of Arabia
— the Hadhramaut.
None of the three sites had
any timber trees. And, only miles from the border separating
Yemen and Oman, the dramatic Qamar mountain ranges, thrusting
some 3000 feet high, became a major barrier to exploration.
After days exploring inland tracks, I used local fishermen
to take me in their small boat along the coast by boat,
discovering several sheltered bays that had rarely been
seen by outsiders. It was in this way that the years
of exploring unexpectedly paid off late one afternoon
in October, 1989. 5
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One of these bays, Khor Kharfot
(“Fort Inlet”) proved to be the end of a long ravine winding
through the mountains from the interior desert. This
valley, Wadi Sayq (“River Valley”) led to the most fertile
and lush coastal location anywhere in Arabia. A beautiful
sand beach linked both sides of the bay with luxuriant
vegetation and large timber trees lining the sides of
the valley. The air was full of birds and insects. Wild
bees produced honey in the caves that lined its sides.
Springs and mountain run-off fed a large freshwater lagoon
where the sea inlet once lay and a prominent peak stood
on the western side of the bay with hundred foot cliffs
at its base. Although we were later to find extensive
ruins, the place was uninhabited and pristine. Except
for metal ore (1 Nephi 16: 9-11, 16) each one of the elements
of Nephi’s account was present.
Because this location was
so impressive FARMS (the Foundation for Ancient Research
and Mormon Studies), now a part of BYU in Provo, sponsored
two expedition teams to Oman in 1993, sending a geologist
and an archaeologist to make the first evaluation. We
soon learned that the bay had been a sheltered sea inlet
until the past few hundred years, when a sand bar closed
it off to the ocean.
The ruins showed that the
place had been inhabited several times in the distant
past but not for long periods. In the valley’s interior
I had already discovered huge seams of flint lying exposed
on the ground. English botanists identified the timber
trees as very suitable sea-resistant wood suitable for
shipbuilding. One surviving tree measured some 47 feet
in circumference; another stood more than a hundred feet
tall — all a stone’s throw from the shoreline.
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The final scriptural item,
ore (Nephi did not specify which metal) fell into place
shortly after, when BYU geologist Revell Phillips located
iron ore that could be picked up by hand and be smelted
into basic tools. 6 This discovery in Wadi Sayq
and at one other location was the first time iron ore
had ever been reported in Oman. As part of a long-term
project BYU has been sending teams to Kharfot on a regular
basis ever since.
Over the course of following
years I discovered that a series of plateaus allowed travel
in a “nearly eastward” direction (1 Nephi 17:1) over a
straight route all the way from “Nahom” to the fertile
area of coast in southern Oman. 7 To me, this
finding demonstrated clearly that Nephi was both very
accurate and literal when describing the desert journey.
The capstone to my years of research in Yemen then came
when three inscribed altars were excavated, confirming
that the name “Nahom” indeed dated to between 600 and
700 BC, just as Nephi wrote. 8 Historian Terryl
Givens describes the 1997 altar find as “the first actual
archaeological evidence for the historicity of the Book
of Mormon.” 9
These spectacular developments
have not in some way “proved” that the Book of Mormon
is true, any more than archaeology has been able to prove
that the Bible is. What they have done however is establish
Nephi’s account as completely plausible. No one
can laugh at his story about arriving at a lush and fertile
place in Arabia with timber trees.
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Tourists today can retrace
the Lehite’s steps, see exactly what Nephi described and
ponder the likelihood that an unschooled farm boy in 1830
rural New York could have known of such a place. In fact,
critics have been strangely quiet on the subject of “Bountiful”
since the findings of this research began to be published
in 1994.
Ultimately, “proof” of the
truthfulness of the Book of Mormon still comes to each
of us only in the way that Moroni outlined (Moroni 10:3-5).
That will always be so. 10 The physical evidences
described above are significant however because they enlarge
and confirm our testimonies and give new depth to the
scriptures. Perhaps they will become the means of bring
the Book of Mormon to peoples who do not yet know it.
They give us renewed appreciation for the faith of a boy-prophet
who built a ship on the Arabian shore, the boy-prophet
who preserved his words as his civilization collapsed
around him and that of another boy-prophet who brought
them forth in our day.
Only Two Sites
Over the years only two specific
sites have been seriously proposed by Book of Mormon researchers
as Nephi’s Bountiful: Khor Rori and Khor Kharfot, both
in southern Oman.
It is important to remember
that Nephi’s Bountiful was much, much more than just a
suitable place to build and launch his ship. Twice we
are told by Nephi that the very reason it was named Bountiful
was because there was “much fruit” there (1 Nephi 17:5,6).
Of course there had to also be a suitable sheltered harbor
where a ship could be constructed and launched into the
great ocean. The coast of southern Oman has several such
bays, including both these sites. But it was the lushness
of the place and its ability to provide all of the group’s
needs that distinguished Bountiful from other bays.
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Both these places have several
features in common. Each lies “nearly eastward” of Nahom
and can be reached from the interior desert. Both have
sources of fresh water. They each have a sheltered harbor
and each has cliffs overlooking the sea. We now know
that both are within a few miles of an iron ore source.
The differences between them, however, are striking.
On the one hand we have Khor
Rori, in Lehi’s day a populated pagan town and in later
times a busy shipping port, with little natural vegetation
and no timber at all near the coast. The lack of timber
has led some writers to suggest that it may have been
imported from India as was done in northern Oman. Even
today significant vegetation grows only in small irrigated
areas at the coast or many miles inland. Khor Rori is
surrounded by the broad and arid Salalah plains reaching
inland to the Qara hills. There is no “mount” closer
than twenty miles where Nephi could pray “oft.”
In contrast, Kharfot, hidden
by the steep Qamar mountains, is the most fertile
coastal location on the Arabian peninsula. Its fertility
stretches several miles on each side of the bay. A variety
of wild fruits and wild honey abounds and large timber
trees grow — almost to the waters edge. A prominent mountain
stands on the west side of the bay and at its base is
an elevated plateau that would be ideal for a small community
to live. It is a pristine place, almost certainly uninhabited
in Lehi’s day.
These differences between
the two places can be summarized as follows:
| |
Khor Kharfot |
Khor Rori |
| Much fruit, honey |
Yes |
No |
| Shipbuilding timber |
Yes |
No |
| Nearby mountain |
Yes |
No |
| Flint nearby |
Yes |
None known |
| Unpopulated |
Yes |
No |
On balance,
Khor Kharfot seems a much more convincing fit than Khor
Rori. Over the years I have taken scores of seasoned Latter-day
Saints to both sites and not a single person has ever
felt otherwise. Typically, those who feel otherwise have
not actually been to both sites to compare.
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Maybe Nephi did walk forty
miles round-trip to pray often in a mountain for guidance.
Perhaps timber trees were available somewhere back in
the Qara hills and perhaps the timber was brought down
to the coast along with the abundant fruit he describes.
Could Khor Rori have been the place “prepared of the Lord”
where Lehi and Sariah’s group were led by the Liahona?
Perhaps. But if it was, then a great opportunity was
missed to use what is indisputably a vastly more lush
location with all the elements on hand necessary to build
and launch a ship, just fifty miles further west.
Notes:
1 Lynn & Hope
Hilton, In Search of Lehi’s Trail (Salt Lake City:
Deseret Book, 1976).
2. There would also
seem to be little need for the Lord to provide the Liahona
if all Lehi had to do was follow the trade route from
Jerusalem all the way to Bountiful.
3. Sea level data
is provided in D. T Potts, The Arabian Gulf in Antiquity
(Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1990), 1: 12-16, especially
his chart in Fig 1B. Also see M. J Tooley & I Shennan,
eds. Sea-Level Changes (Oxford: Institute of British
Geographers, Special Publication Series 20, 1987).
4. Of the many sources
dealing with climate change on the Arabian Peninsula one
of the most relevant is Margareta Tengberg “Wood Exploitation
and Degradation of the vegetation cover in Eastern Arabia
from the Bronze Age until early Islamic times,” paper
presented July 21, 2005 at the Seminar for Arabian Studies,
London.
5. The story of the
survey and the discovery of Kharfot is described in Warren
& Michaela Aston, In the Footsteps of Lehi (Salt
Lake City: Deseret Book, 1994), also available in the
LDS Collectors Library 2005 (LDS Media and Deseret
Book, 2005).
6. W. Revell Phillips,
“Metals of the Book of Mormon” in the Journal of Book
of Mormon Studies (JBMS) 9/2 (Provo: FARMS, 2000),
36-41.
7. The plateau explored
by the author is clearly evident in satellite mapping,
see TPC mapping (GSGS) chart J-6C and J-7D on a 1:500,000
scale. The plateau leads eastwards from Nahom between
two deserts and provides straight-line access to the fertile
coast just as Nephi described.
8. See Warren P Aston,
“Newly Found Altars from Nahom,” in JBMS 10/2 (Provo:
FARMS, 2001), 56-61 is the fullest account of the altars
to date.
9. Terryl Givens,
By the Hand of Mormon: The American Scripture that
Launched a New World Religion (New York: Oxford University
Press, 2002), 120-121, 147.
10. An excellent and
current discussion is found in Michael Ash, “Archaeological
Evidence and the Book of Mormon,” available online at
the FAIR site www.fairlds.org.
Kharfot
is depiected as Bountiful in Daniel Ludlow, ed Encyclopedia
of Mormonism (New York: MacMillan, 1991)
1:145 and in the selections published in To All the World:
the Book of Mormon articles from the Encyclopedia
of Mormonism (Salt Lake City: Deseret Book,
1993); in Light from the Dust, A Photographic
Exploration into the Ancient World of the Book of Mormon
(Salt Lake City: Deseret Book, 1993); in Warren
and Michaela Aston, In the Footsteps of Lehi
(Salt Lake City: Deseret Book, 1994); in Warren P. Aston,
“The Arabian Bountiful Discovered?” Journal of Mormon
Studies 7/1 (Provo: FARMS, 1998); and more
recently in John W. Welch, Seely & Seely, eds. Glimpses
of Lehi’s Jerusalem (Provo: FARMS, 2004) 77; and
in the 2005 BYU/FARMS documentary film, Journey of
Faith.